Paul's Nautical Adventures

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The Caribbean Run

Please excuse the delay in this update; I'm working at Caribbean speed... 

Antigua - 12th November 1999 to 25th November 1999 

Well what can I say about Antigua, it sure was a pleasure to arrive after two weeks crossing the Atlantic, especially as we were greeted with large quantities of Rum and the opportunity to continue to the night clubs, where we had a couple more beers before falling over from drink exhaustion or lack of drink for the proceeding couple of weeks.  Unfortunately we were also greeted by hurricane Lenny so the decision was made to stay put and move the boats to a hurricane hole in English Harbour (Nelson's Dockyard) among the mangrove swamps.  On the few days while Lenny was deciding what to do, we just sat about drinking coffee, the occasional beer and playing card games.  Eventually it was decided that the Hurricane was dissipating and whilst the eye passed directly over us causing a very unique yellow sky, the winds never seemed to get above 50 knots. However whilst we were having a shandy in the Copper and Lumber store (local Pub), the rains descended and before too long the who! le bar was flooded, but not to be deterred we managed to carry on drinking, and even managed a paper yacht race with bits of fag packets which sunk eventually (blimey we must have been bored).  The island was relatively lucky with the only damage being flood damage.  When we moved back to Falmouth Harbour many of the worlds Super yachts had appeared for the boat show and we seemed to be dwarfed by floating hotels and some very fancy yachts.  I took an initial fancy to Southern Cross III, which at 182 Feet is apparently the biggest Glass Fibre boat in the world.  Unfortunately at US$300,000 for a 10-day charter it may be somewhat out of the average persons league.   The day before leaving Antigua we went sailing to test and adjust the rigging before mooring off a beach to dive and clean the hull.  It was nice to be away from the constant noise and pollution caused by the generators on the Super yachts running 24 hours a day, just for television and air-conditioning (what luxuries! !!). 

Antigua to Guadeloupe - 25th November 1999 

Fortunately we were now sailing with our number 1 Genoa again, which seemed to be where we competed best.  The blue Dacron nightmare (Spinnaker) has been put away pro tem, but I am sure it will re-surface again soon.  Mike (Cliff) has now left us temporarily so I have been promoted (??) to Bowman, where the real tough stuff begins.  Hopefully we will have fair winds until Trinidad, where Mike appears again and I can re-establish myself in the relative safety at the foot of the mast.  Fortunately we took a course running close to the island and whilst the others got caught in a wind hole, Isis was able to make steady progress and crossed the southern end of the island in the turn to the finish line in first place.  Fortunately we were also able to see when the others boats made the turn and the next boat was at least an hour behind.  When we finished we were pleasantly surprised to see that Diana had finished in second place. 

Guadeloupe to Martinique - 27th November 1999 

We set sail in the evening from Guadeloupe preparing for a reasonably smooth passage.  Unfortunately Squirt (Amanda) and I were on mother watch so we had planned a stew for dinner (which incidentally neither of us had cooked before, but it couldn't be that difficult, could it?).  The reality of the sail was a pounding sea, on a beat with the usual life at 45 degrees, or so it seemed! Dinner when it arrived was a major achievement, and had to be prepared with breaks for fresh air, whenever we felt unwell.  In the morning we discovered we were still in the lead, but this time when we took a close line in on the island, the wind just disappeared, and Juno who had been in last position took advantage of this and steered out to sea to overtake us all at speed.  We finally finished in second place, and had a celebratory beer on arrival anyway. 

Martinique to St Lucia - 30th November 1999 

Determined to spot wind holes before sailing in to them, we placed Noddy (Ian) on lookout, and even though some were unavoidable, we managed to hold a first place immediately in front of Juno who finished about 25 yards behind us.  This was the closest racing we had yet seen, and any mistake Isis made would have lost our position, so you can imagine the relief when we crossed the finish line.  We had also readied the Spinnaker just in case the wind changed suddenly, but fortunately this had not been required.  A relief both in terms of risks to our position, and the inevitable task of packing it again (see Yachting world last month for details of the glories of packing kites on Millennium boats), 

St Lucia to St Vincent - 2nd December 1999 

We sailed out of St Lucia with a mixture of both excitement and disappointment as Marigot bay had to be one of the most beautiful moorings we had seen so far. Coupled with the friendliness of the islanders made it a difficult place to leave.  We also had to get up at 05:00 hours, which was probably the most difficult thing, and what with Daiquiri's in the bar the night before, just a little sluggishly.  The race itself was fairly uneventful and Minerva took first place with us just a little behind. 

Cruise to Mustique - 4th December 1999 

Mustique is a beautiful island but very expensive.  It is also the holiday home of several of the world's rich and famous including Princess Margaret and apparently David Bowie.  Had a very good meal in a restaurant called the Firefly before having a few drinks to celebrate my birthday at Basil's Bar.  Believe I got back to the boat at about 02:00 and slept on the coach roof, the reason I can only assume was that it was too hot to sleep inside. 

Cruise to Tobago Cays and PSV (Petite St Vincent) - 5th December 1999 

Motored over to the Cays where we spent a few hours swimming off deserted beaches and snorkeling over coral reefs.  Velcro (Jeff) even managed to catch a fish on route, which we barbequed on the Port-a-Barbi back on Isis.  PSV itself is a tiny island with only one hotel, which also happens to be the guy that owns the island.  Had a few drinks at the bar, looked at the prices of accommodation, then left.  Woke up to the same beautiful setting and a few of the others went across to the beach for an early morning swim before proceeding to what must rank as the smallest Island in the world, a tiny beach protected by coral with an umbrella and a bottle opener. 

Cruise to Bequia - 6th  and 7th December 1999 

Sailed back up to Bequia, in order to re-start the race from St Vincent in a couple of days time.  Bequia is also a tiny port but strangely with enough depth to allow cruise ships in, so the shops and restaurants are a mix of duty free goods and good quality restaurants.  However in the evenings everything shuts up early and me finding myself with some holidaymakers from one of the big charter boats, went on to the Reggae Bar, which is really just a shack selling Alcohol. In the meantime and unbeknown to me the rest of the Isis crew had decided to go home leaving me with no transport back to the boat.  So settling down to a good night sleep, on a particularly good deck chair, whilst some local dogs (Canine) protected my wallet and me, one of the locals ventured to try and find a local water taxi.  Eventually one was located and for a vast sum of money he agreed to taxi me back, whereupon Dughall greeted me and asked if I'd had a good night.....so the moral of the story is to ! buy yourself a good hand held radio so you can radio the boat, should you ever find yourself off the beaten track. 

St Vincent to Grenada - 8th December 1999 

Back to racing again, slow start but a good race down to Grenada past all the islands we had just visited.  Ben on Juno took the initial lead, but when a squall came up he seemed to be overpowered and had to sail downwind in order to reduce sail.  We had the benefit of watching this occur, so could lower the Spinnaker and hoist the Jib whilst still in reasonably calm water.  Meanwhile we were neck and neck with Minerva, but they seemed to get better wind and managed to creep slowly into the lead.  Juno soon recovered and took an inland track and as we Gybed at the bottom of the island, where coming up fast with their heavyweight Spinnaker.   Everyone on Isis made an extra effort to hold the second place, and Ted (Paul) soon had everyone in position, whilst we raced trimming the kite permanently for the last few miles.  Eventually we passed the finishing line in second place, and could relax once more. 

Grenada to Trinidad - 12th December 1999 

This being the last race in the Caribbean series, we hoped that either Juno or Diana would come in first, allowing Isis if in front of Minerva to take equal first for the Portsmouth to Trinidad phase, having already won the Caribbean series.  The race started at 18:00, and whilst we were slow off the start made ground up on all the other boats, to eventually lead the race. It then decided to rain and the winds came up and everyone spent the night is soaked shorts, mentioning that this wasn't in the Millennium brochure.  The race finally finished at around 02:30 and we settled down to our evening meal of Tuna and Potatoes. 

Trinidad - 13th December 1999 to 21st December 1999 

The next day we were invited to take part in a short round the cans race with the local sailing club.  We led the first part of the race but Diana came up fast and eventually won the race.  Afterwards we were treated to free Rum at the prize giving ceremony which was particularly welcome. 

Trinidad - 21st December 1999 

Despite an appeal to the ROC and Millennium by Minerva, the race results will stand with Isis and Minerva taking joint first place on the first phase of the Round the World race, Juno second and Diana third.  Isis also takes the win for the Caribbean series.  Today's race to Tobago is a fun race with local dignitaries invited to take part.  We then spend two weeks with our families and friends before starting the leg to Aruba and then on to the Panama Canal.  Since being in Trinidad we have also entertained local dignitaries with a sunset sail, and kids from the local sailing clubs which turned into a really fun day out, particularly when one of the girls sunk the theme to Titanic from the Prow of the boat (not necessarily the best song, but was sung very well anyway). At present we have a crew of 10 with an additional 5 joining us in Tobago. Unfortunately Squirt finished her part of the race here in Trinidad and will be sadly missed by all crew.  Mike (Cliff) has not being able to re-join but we still hope to see him at some time.  Meanwhile Jill has joined us and will no doubt be given a nickname in due course. 

At present the following Isis crew are:

Dughall - Still skippering, and wanting to computerize the whole boat 

Princess (Julie) - Compiling a directory of convenient marina hotels 

Ted (Paul) - Still moving crew around the boat while racing 

Big Bob (Bob) - Can't wait, gone flying to Tobago 

Herbie (Bob) - Still not drinking, yet!! 

Velcro (Jeff) - Wants to Motor down to Tobago, to get more sleep in!! 

Woody (John) - trying to decide who has the best KFC

Mega (Me) - slowly being converted to Sail power (with occasional need of 70 knot adrenaline rush) 

Jill - waiting for a nickname

Finally to all my family, friends and anyone else who has joined this list, may I on behalf of Isis and her crew wish you all a very happy Christmas, and a truly fabulous new Millennium.